Rolex Air King 5500 Review: The Forgotten Vintage King

The Rolex Air King is truly the vintage Rolex for the purists. While the Air King is not as popular as the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Day-Date, it’s one of the older collections of Rolex with a rich history. The history of Rolex Air-King dates back in 1945 during World War II.

What made the Air King such an iconic timepiece is the simplicity of the dial and precise timekeeping.

We have already reviewed the Rolex Air King Ref. 116900 which is the closest you can get to a Rolex sports watch. Today, we’ll take an in-depth look at the Rolex Air King 5500.

For this Rolex Air King 5500 review, we find out if this vintage model is worth adding to your collection.

Rolex Air King 5500 Review: At a Glance

Rolex Air King 5500 Review

Model:

Rolex Air King

Reference no.

5500

Model case:

Stainless steel w/ polished bezel (34mm)

Material:

Oystersteel

Bezel:

Smooth

Winding crown:

Waterproof screw-down crown

Crystal:

Acrylic crystal

Movement:

Automatic 1520 movement

Water resistance

10 ATM

Power reserve:

40 hours

Bracelet:

Stainless steel Jubilee w/ Fliplock clasp

Clasp:

Fold clasp

Dial:

Silver Index w/ Tritium hands and lume plots

First Impressions

Rolex Air King 5500 Review

The Air King collection has always fascinated me due to its storied history. The Air King was introduced alongside names like Air Lion, Air Giant, and Air Tiger – all of which have flamed out. Rolex originally made the Air King as another spin to the Oyster Perpetual to honor the RAF Pilots who served during WW2.

The Air King is not exactly a popular model among enthusiasts and collectors but there are still many budding enthusiasts that do want it. Since this timepiece continues to fly under most people’s radar, even the most vintage Air Kings are sold at reasonable prices.

This is what made me decide to give the Air-King a well-deserved spin. It has a great history and good price, it’s hard to pass up on that.

One of the first things I’ve noticed about the Rolex Air King 5500 is the size. Clocking in at 34 mm, the Air King is a petite watch which is fairly common during its era. One look at the Air King and you’ll see that it’s a very vintage piece. It features a very simple and clean look and time-only design.

The design just doesn’t get any more classic than this.

The elegant silver dial is one of the standout design elements here, and the gentle sunburst effect of the dial does a great job of wrapping up the whole look. Aside from the vintage aesthetic, the Air King 5500 is, for the lack of a better word, typical. I know that it’s a classic and it deserves respect but I can’t help but feel merely “whelmed.”

Don’t get me wrong. It’s a very well-made timepiece with a timeless look and provides just what you can expect from Rolex. It just gives me the impression that it’s a piece that’s best for collection purposes.

Design

Rolex Air King 5500 Review

The Rolex Air King 5500 is the definition of timeless elegance. You can tell that Rolex made a watch exactly how they want it.

The 5500 boasts the hallmark traits of a Rolex without a single overdone feature. The minimalist good looks make the Air King such a versatile timepiece. Regardless of the purpose, whether it’s daily wear or something dressier, this is a watch that will never go out of style.

As mentioned, the main selling point of the watch is its elegant silver dial. The sunburst effect in the middle of the dial sure adds a lot to my enjoyment of the watch. The sharp, applied indices are elegantly detailed and are topped with small lume plots along the edge of the face. This is a common Rolex design element during that era.

The hands aren’t particularly mindblowing and look like your typical baton hands. The half part of the hands is fitted with lume but not all the way through. The lume is cut short before right before the tip, making the end look like a pencil.

The Air King 5500 is available in many different variants and dial colors which is always a good thing.

Construction and Wearability

The Air King 5500 is a stainless steel marvel. Despite being a vintage timepiece, it feels solid and robust which gives me a lot of confidence. After all, this is a watch designed to honor World War II pilots.

For the case, the 5500 utilizes the iconic Oyster case and screw down crown. According to its official specs, the watch can withstand depths of 50 meters which is pretty good for a watch of its age. In addition, a domed, acrylic crystal protects the dial. It’s not exactly sapphire crystal but you have to keep in mind that the Air King is supposedly and entry-level model.

Like with most Rolex timepieces, the Air King 5500 is fitted with the classic Oyster bracelet. However, since Air King’s production spans decades, a few different Oyster bracelets may be used depending on the production date.

With that said, the Rolex Air King 5500 offers a surprising comfort which can only be attributed to Rolex’s excellent construction philosophy. The Oystersteel bracelet and clasp work just as expected. It’s not as fancy as some of the more modern Oyster versions but there’s really nothing to complain here.

If you’re looking to wear the 5500 daily, you’re in a good company. The Air King might be vintage but it’s not fragile.

Timekeeping

Rolex Air King 5500 Review 1520 Movement

Because of past U.S. import laws that are designed to protect domestic watch companies, the movement inside the Air King 5500 varied. There are two caliber movements found inside the 5500: the 1520 and 1530.

The caliber 1530 features 17, 25, or 26 jewels while the caliber 1520 had either 17 or 26 jewels. Unfortunately, the U.S. and Canada markets have the shorter end of the stick with downgraded movements. One notable example of this is that the 1520 came with the “Precision” text in the dial while with the 1530, Rolex used the “Super Precision” labeling.

However, both movements aren’t exactly the cream of the crop. Both are also not COSC certified. While wearing the Air King 5500, you can actually hear the movement rattling around. Despite that, both the 1530 and 1520 movements are robust and easy to service.

On an interesting note, the most sought out version of the 5500 is the one that features the words Air-King and “Super Precision” in red. There’s also the rare Dominos Air-King 5500 which was used to incentivize franchises that have fulfilled their sales goals. It’s a very interesting collaboration for sure.

Pricing

Of course, for this Rolex Air King 5500 review, we find out if this watch is worth the money.

The production of the old Air King was halted back in 2014. The new Air King Reference 116900 is a different kind of timepiece and marketed as an entry-level Rolex. Therefore, if you’re going to buy the old version of the Rolex Air King, you’re stuck with resellers and used models.

As I’ve mentioned earlier, the Rolex Air King 5500 isn’t the most popular Rolex watch out there. For this reason, it’s easy to find a relatively affordable Air King 5500 over the web. I’ve had mine for a little bit over $3,000 which is not bad at all for a vintage Rolex.

There are 5500 variants with different bracelets and dial colors that can go a bit higher in price. However, I’ve yet to see an Air King that went over $4,000 except for the Rolex Air King 5500 Dominos version.

For the price, you get a classic Rolex with a rich history. It’s also quite robust and versatile.

Should You Get the Rolex Air King 5500?

Rolex Air King 5500 Review

We end this Rolex Air King 5500 review with our verdict.

I’ve had the Air King 5500 for quite a while now and I’m honestly very fond of it. Sure, it’s not exactly a watch that goes into my regular rotation but I understand what Rolex is trying to accomplish here. In some parts, the 5500 is outdated and it doesn’t even have a mechanical movement for the avid horologist. However, its classic good looks can hold its own, all things considered.

Obviously, the best aspect of the Air King 5500 is the price. It’s a good Rolex to consider if you want a watch that won’t break the bank. However, I simply can’t recommend the Air King 5500 for new collectors and Rolex first-timers. Rolex has plenty of amazing watches under its belt and the 5500 is not even close to a contender.

If you want an entry-level Rolex, the Air King 116900 might be the better option. Rolex had fun with the 116900 and it has more features. It’s a polarizing watch but it’s a good first watch for any budding collector, as far as entry-level Rolex watches go.

Overall, the Air King 5500 is not without its charm. This collection has some pretty interesting variants that are difficult to find – royal logos, jeweler stamps, and company logos come to mind. The Rolex Air King 5500 offers a solid value proposition for anyone who’s looking to dive into vintage Rolex.

Rolex Air King Review: A Design Departure or a Fresh Take on a Classic?

One of the most common criticisms about Rolex is that their watches tend to look the same. To some extent, there’s a truth to this sentiment and it applies to both Rolex’s historical timepieces and contemporary models. However, Rolex’s meticulous consistency is what made it one of the largest luxury brands in the world.

Therefore, many people are caught off-guard when they see something as unorthodox as the Rolex Air King.

Today, we’ll take a long hard look at the Rolex Air King. The Air King is widely considered to be the Swiss luxury brand’s entry-level pilot watch but is it worth the entry-level price tag?

Let’s take a look.

Rolex Air King Review: At a Glance

Rolex Air King Review

As mentioned, the Air King is the least expensive model in the Rolex line. For this review, we’ll focus on the Rolex Air-King ref. 116900 model. But first, let’s see the key specs and features.

Model:

Rolex Air King

Reference no.

116900

Model case:

Oyster, 40 mm, Oystersteel

Oyster architecture:

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Material:

Oystersteel

Bezel:

Smooth

Winding crown:

Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproofness system

Crystal:

Scratch-resistant sapphire

Crown:

Screw-locked, two gaskets
Water-resistance:Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Movement:

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding, with a magnetic shield to protect the movement

Caliber:

3131, Manufacture Rolex

Precision:

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Functions:

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Oscillator:

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring

Winding:

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve:

48 hours

Bracelet:

Oyster, flat three-piece links

Clasp:

Folding Oysterclasp with Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link

Dial:

Black, Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

First Impression

Rolex Air King Review Featured

The Rolex Air King is perhaps the most confusing Rolex I’ve ever owned.

It’s worth noting that the original design of the Air King was very simple and in some ways, a very purist Rolex. I mean it has no date aperture, it comes with a water-resistant case, chronometer, and a screw-down crown. It had the most essential Rolex elements without the distractions.

However in 2016, Rolex released an Air King version (reference 116900) which was a significant departure from the original design.

If you are familiar with the old Air King design, you’ll find the new design to be quite extroverted. The rather unorthodox design is mainly seen on the dial. The new Air King’s dial is uncharacteristically colorful and is somewhat busy when compared to other iconic Rolex models such as the Submariner and Datejust.

I must admit that the 116900’s overall look takes a bit of getting used to. The old Air King’s popularity was mainly attributed to its simplicity and robustness. I have to say that Air King still has those qualities with an extra touch of personality.

However, as with any drastic changes to time-tested Rolex designs, to say that the latest Air King is polarizing to timepiece collectors would be a severe understatement.

The Polarizing Black Dial

Rolex Air King Review

It’s hard not to agree that most of the confusion about the Air King lies with its satin black dial. The new Air King retains the black dial but with some strange design elements introduced.

First off, the dial features applied, Arabic numeral markers with the familiar Rolex Explorer layout. The Arabic 3, 6 and 9’clock markers are fitted in polished white gold, and the 12 o’clock marker is an inverted triangle which is also fashioned in white gold. The rest of the dial’s layout takes a strange turn as the rest of the hour markers go from ‘5’ to ’55’, only interrupted by the Explorer layout.

While this is a layout that divided many fans, I personally like this design as it reminds me of a cockpit indicator. Some people may not like the layout but it certainly looks like a pilot watch for the most part. With that said, legibility is excellent with its bold and unapologetic dial. The addition of the Chromalight lume makes readability a non-issue even in dark environments.

Another noteworthy departure is that the Rolex name is printed in green font and the familiar Crown logo is printed in yellow. Above the 6 o’clock sits the stylized Air King text with the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified text below. I have to admit that I was taken aback by the logo designs but they certainly grew on me.

Like it or not, this enigma of a dial is what gave the Air King its distinct identity.

The Milgauss Case

Rolex Air King Review

If you think the shape of the Air King’s case is familiar, it’s probably because it reminds you of the Rolex Milgauss case. Well, the Rolex Air King 116900 uses the same Milgauss case which means that the watch is protected from magnetic fields.

Both the case and the bracelet is made from the signature 904L grade stainless steel and boasts a stunning satin finish. However, it’s worth noting that the Milgauss’ bracelet features a PCL (polished center link) bracelet while the Air King is all satin.

The Air King case has a thickness of about 13mm which is roughly the same thickness as the Omega Speedmaster. While it might be a bit too thick for some people, the Air-King never felt bulky or unwieldy. It’s safe to assume that the thickness is due to the anti-magnetic shielding.

Rolex Air King Review

As you might expect from a Rolex timepiece, the Oyster bracelet and folding Oyster clasp provide the much-needed ease of use. The bracelet is noiselessly smooth and operates reliably. I have no issue with comfort as well and it’s like wearing silk instead of steel. It’s a fairly hefty watch but Rolex did a good job with weight distribution. The signature Easylink adjustable extension links go a long way to ensure an excellent fit.

It never felt that the Air King is weighing me down.

The Air-King Movement

Rolex Air King Review 3131 Movement

This isn’t a Rolex Air King Review without talking about the movement. With that said, the Air-King is powered by the self-winding mechanical movement, the Caliber 3131. Again, this is the same exact movement used not just for the Rolex Milgauss but for the Rolex Explorer as well.

The movement operates at a frequency of 28.800 vph with a 48-hour power reserve. As mentioned, the movement is protected from electromagnetic fields. The inclusion of the blue paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring adds further magnetic protection and toughness to the watch. This pretty much ensures that the watch will be precise and reliable even when you’re on a flight.

Like with most Rolex models, the Air-King promises -2/+2 sec/day precision. The Caliber 3131 movement may not have the same fanfare as with the new Chronergy escapement, it’s a solid movement that offers good precision and some nice features.

Pricing

As I have mentioned earlier, the Rolex Air King is the brand’s less expensive model. It just edges out the updated 39mm Explorer in terms of affordability.

So is the Air King worth the entry-level asking price?

In my opinion, the Air King is as close as you can get to a proper Rolex sports watch. If you are looking for a darn good pilot watch with the signature Rolex polish, then this watch is more than worthy of its price tag. Would I go as far as recommending this for would-be first-time Rolex owners?

Well, that’s a bit of a tricky question.

While the old Air-King is considered a classic, the Air King 116900 looks nothing like the original design. For all extents and purposes, the Air-King is a handsome watch. However, it doesn’t really scream Rolex. I imagine that most people who are looking to own their first Rolex is aiming to buy into its heritage.

With its enigmatic design, the Air-King looks nothing like your classic Rolex. However, it does have the iconic Rolex polish and reliability.

In its current price point, the Air King is not worth the entry-level price if you’re looking to own a traditionally designed Rolex. On the other hand, those who are looking for a Rolex watch with plenty of personality, I highly recommend this watch – it’s practically a steal.

Should You Get the Rolex Air King?

Rolex Air King Review

We conclude this Rolex Air King review with our verdict.

To be quite honest, the Rolex Air-King Reference 116900 didn’t really make me excited at first. However, the more I look into it, the more endearing it gets. It’s a watch that’s all about risk-taking and needs to catch your attention. While we celebrate Rolex for the brand’s reliability and consistency, the Air King reminds us that it can still venture far from its comfort zone.

The Air King is also a fairly versatile piece that can cater to a wide range of needs. I have worn this watch from sportier activities to dressier events. It looks great, wears comfortably, and offers excellent reliability. Legibility is also on-point and remains true to the spirit of the best pilot watches.

The Air King is clearly targeted towards younger users who are turned off by the classicism of the Oyster or the omnipresence of the Submariner.

Many collectors have turned up their noses with the idiosyncrasies of the Air-King but I think its polarizing aspects are its greatest strength. This is a Rolex that dares to stand out from the rest of the crowd.

Is the Air King too much of a departure from a classic? Or is it a fresh take on a classic? Regardless of what we think, you really can’t fault the Air King for being dull and boring.